{"id":1106,"date":"2026-05-24T17:06:06","date_gmt":"2026-05-24T17:06:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bostonrelocationinsider.com\/?p=1106"},"modified":"2026-05-24T17:06:06","modified_gmt":"2026-05-24T17:06:06","slug":"boston-still-runs-on-dunkin-but-a-new-coffee-culture-is-taking-hold","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bostonrelocationinsider.com\/?p=1106","title":{"rendered":"Boston still runs on Dunkin\u2019. But a new coffee culture is taking hold."},"content":{"rendered":"<article>\n<div>\n<p><span><span>S<\/span><\/span><span><span>quished between a Dunkin\u2019, a Starbucks, and a Caff\u00e8 Nero, the bar Merai in Brookline is known for funky cocktails. But on a recent Sunday morning, customers packed inside for pour-over coffee served in stemlessglassware.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p>Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/bostonrelocationinsider.com\/?p=1104\">LNG tanker exits Hormuz for India for first time since war began<\/a><\/p>\n<p><span>Theywere lined up for a high-end pick-me-up from Newbery Street Coffee Roasters, a Thai coffee pop-up that has taken over Merai\u2019s space on weekend mornings for the past year. Its owner, Pack Katisomsakul, sauntered from table to table like a sommelier discussing wine, fielding questions about his 12 roasts.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Katisomsakul\u2019s passion for coffee is fairly new. In 2020, a friend back home in Thailand mailed him a bag of coffee beans. It tasted like cherry juice and pomegranates, and had low acidity, unlike the instant coffee he was used to. <\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<p><span>\u201cI never thought coffee could taste like that,\u201d the 35-year-old said.<\/span><\/p>\n<div>\n<div>\n<div><span>Get Starting Point<\/span><\/div>\n<div><span>A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday.<\/span><\/div>\n<div>\n<div><label>Enter Email<\/label><\/p>\n<div><button>Sign Up<\/button><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><span>He\u2019s been trying to convince Boston of the same ever since.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Katisomsakul is part of a new generation of immigrant and Asian American entrepreneurs rethinking the traditional cafe with scrappy pop-ups and temporary concepts inside bars, gyms, and galleries across Boston. Together, they\u2019re trying to transform a city long defined by convenience coffee into one driven by craft and cultural identity, even as the economics of Boston are increasingly stacked against them.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Even as independent operators like Katisomsakul are multiplying, commercial rents are soaring and chains are quickly adapting to trends. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>But while Boston may still run on Dunkin\u2019, its next generation of coffee drinkers increasingly wants something else. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Nearing closing time at Newbery, there was hardly an empty seat. Customers sipped light roasts, lingering over them like tea. Next door, Dunkin\u2019 didn\u2019t have a single customer sitting inside.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>\u201cThe coffee scene is changing,\u201d said Katisomsakul. \u201cThe industry has been ready for it. Finally, so is Boston.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Whether Boston\u2019s new wave of independent operators can survive may be another question entirely.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>\u201cAt this rate, it\u2019s going to be a whole lot of major corporations versus an army of independents,\u201d said Tam Le, owner of C\u00e0ph\u00ea Collective, a new Vietnamese cafeattached to a Cambridge art gallery. \u201cNational brands are knocking on Boston\u2019s doorsteps. Those players will always have the marketing budgets, consultants, and ability to quickly add new items.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Boston\u2019s current coffee boom didn\u2019t emerge out of nowhere. The city\u2019s most recent coffee movement arrived in the 2000s and early 2010s, when specialty shops such as George Howell Coffee, Thinking Cup, Pavement Coffeehouse, and Barismo introduced single-origin beans and meticulous pour-overs. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>But while craft coffee has long flourished in other Northeast cities, these previous spurts struggled to penetrate beyond Boston\u2019s affluent neighborhoods. Some locals viewed $8 pour-overs as elitist and for yuppie newcomers, while Dunkin\u2019 remained synonymous with the city\u2019s working-class identity. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Today\u2019s wave reflects a broader shift toward Thai beans, Vietnamese coffee, Japanese matcha, and social media-driven aesthetics where bright colors, white fluffy cold foam, and sweeter flavors reflect the tastes of a younger, more diverse Boston.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>\u201cStarbucks created coffee culture. But Generation Z and millennials don\u2019t know anything other than coffee culture,\u201d said Brian Warrener, director of the Center for Beverage Education &amp; Innovation at Johnson &amp; Wales University. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>He said the region\u2019s younger generation isn\u2019t ashamed to swap the \u201cdifficult to consume\u201d drinks such as bitter black coffee, hoppy IPAs, and dry wine with lots of tannins, for lighter, smoother, and sweeter choices. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>\u201cStarbucks and Dunkin\u2019 now represent a commoditization of that culture. These generations expect more, and want everything to be an experience,\u201d he said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Americans are drinking more coffee, with 66 percent of adults reportedly drinking a cup every day. A recent Toast analysis found a bump in barista-crafted drinks that many people don\u2019t have the skills or time to make at home. Latte orders rose 4 percent in 2025, while regular drip coffee sales fell by nearly the same amount. <\/span><\/p>\n<p>Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/bostonrelocationinsider.com\/?p=1102\">One killed in exchange of gunfire with Secret Service near White House<\/a><\/p>\n<p><span>Many of the same trends driving Boston\u2019s indie coffee boom are also being rapidly adopted by the chains the newcomers are taking on.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Blank Street Coffee, the venture capital-backed chain that\u2019s expanding rapidly, has embraced Gen Z-focused matcha drinks, now accounting for 50 percent of its business.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Starbucks and Dunkin\u2019, which is attempting to go public for a third time, still dominate the market. But both chains have recently closed underperforming stores, are reconsidering their retail footprint, and introduced trendier items, such as dirty soda and protein-rich drinks.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Many of Boston\u2019s newest coffee businesses don\u2019t have a permanent address as owners avoid costs of traditional storefronts. Even established operators said Boston is becoming increasingly difficult.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>\u201cThe challenge is finding locations and rents that actually can sustain an independent business,\u201d said Andy LoPilato, CEO of Pavement Coffeehouse, a local chain still owned by its founder.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>For many entering Boston\u2019s coffee scene, the math behind opening a traditional cafe no longer works.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>\u201cWe looked at different places all over Boston and surrounding areas, and it all ranges from $6,000 at the lowest to $22,000 a month,\u201d to rent a retail space, said Najma Mohamed, who cofounded Espresso East, a yellow coffee truck that\u2019s parked along the Neponset Greenway Trail, behind a CrossFit in Dorchester. It\u2019s not visible from the street, but customers line up for lattes with flavors like maple sea salt, pistachio, Dutch cookie, and even baklava. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>The coffee truck also serves a fig matcha that uses tea from a Japanese farm the owners have traveled to. That\u2019s a menu that would have been considered nearly unthinkable at an indie shop two decades ago when French vanilla, mocha, and hazelnut were largely the only flavors. Then, being an aficionado meant being a purist.<\/span><\/p>\n<div><span>Related<span>: <\/span><\/span>Baristas may not love your sugary drinks, but they\u2019re happy you\u2019re happy<\/div>\n<p><span>Mohamed and her sister, who were born in Kenya, started planning Espresso East in 2023, in their early 20s. They pulled personal loans, credit cards, and their savings to make it happen. Opening a truck dramatically lowered the barrier. The sisters now own the truck debt-free. A brick-and-mortar would have required a weightier upfront investment between rent, build-outs, utilities, permits, and staffing.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>\u201cWe stopped doing the math as soon as we saw the monthly lease amount alone,\u201d said Mohamed.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>On a recent Saturday, Simon Ngo and Tiffany Zheng were in Kenmore Squareat The Handle Bar, vigorously whisking matcha powder to serve dozens of sweaty young peoplewho had just finished a workout class. This spring, they launched Nomu, a roaming pop-up cafeserving ceremonial-grade Uji matcha, after traveling to Japan and learning about the tea.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Sarah Chan, 25, snagged one. \u201cIt\u2019s nice to get matcha from an Asian-owned business by people who know what they\u2019re doing,\u201d said Chan. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Young Bostonians \u201csee rising prices and want to actually know where the ingredients are coming from,\u201d said Ngo, an East Boston native whose parents immigrated from Vietnam. \u201cIf they\u2019re paying seven to eight dollars for a drink, they want to know it\u2019s one of the best things they\u2019re going to find in Boston.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Le, of C\u00e0ph\u00ea Collective, also owns L\u00ea Madeline in Quincy.<i><\/i>He<i><\/i>remembers a moment after opening his first shop in Dorchester a decade ago where \u201ctypical blue collar Dunkin\u2019 customers\u201d first tried Vietnamese coffee.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>\u201cThey were converted,\u201d said Le. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Back at Merai in Brookline, Katisomsakul will soon take Newbery Street down a more traditional route, poised to open a storefront this summer. It\u2019s a feat he never could have imagined \u2014 or afforded \u2014 when he started hosting pop-ups last year.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>\u201cI got my start selling coffee bags on a corner,\u201d said Katisomsakul. \u201cI think this is the beginning for coffee in Boston. I\u2019m just a small piece of the movement.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Read more <a href=\"https:\/\/bostonrelocationinsider.com\/?p=1100\">Trump says he doesn\u2019t want US to \u2018rush\u2019 into deal with Iran<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/article>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The city\u2019s newest cafe operators are trying to build a new coffee boom, even as the economics increasingly stack against them.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1105,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1106","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-business"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Boston still runs on Dunkin\u2019. 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